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No, these are without vacuum. With vacuum the pressure's about 27psi.
A GSR's stock NA fuel pressure with stock injectors is in the 50 to 55psi range without vacuum, 60+ psi with JRSC. I have to run much lower pressure to make the larger injectors flow at the same rate as the stock ones for off boost operation.
[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited January 25, 2001).]
I haven't try lowering my fuel pressure. I did this right after the BTC and was happy to get my car in a state where detonation was impossible to induce.
idle = 52psi
static = 64psi
max = 94psi
stock injectors, cartech, 6psi.
The fact that my A/F didn't get any leaner when temperatures dropped to 0F tells me I'm running pretty rich.
I've had no time for car-play in the last two months.
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342/TPS Mod, JR BTC, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site
Although I have not done the Rafe TPS mod on my car, I believe it to be an outstanding breakthrough in helping us deal with tip-in detonation and part throttle ping.
As for fuel pressures, I too run extremely low numbers... due to the large size of my injectors. (320cc).
AEM regulator (static) = 28 psi.
Cartech regulator (static) = 34 psi.
Max fuel pressure = 54 psi.
vaccuum pressure at idle = 22 psi.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
Does anyone else get a hiccup when the relay closes at ~1psi?
Did anyone ever add the capacitor to the circuit to mantain line voltage, if so what value did you use?
Smooth as glass for me.
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342/TPS Mod, JR BTC, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site
Jeezze Louise...resistors...relays...wires... formulas i=v/r , e=mc2 ...pi r2 diagrams .. schematics.. wires every which way .. who the heck came up with the cazy a** idea anyway ... all I got to say is that I tried it .. and ya know what ...
IT WORKS !!! ... Haaa ... it really does ... wasn't all that bad ... Many thanks to the mad scientist who came up with this ... oh .. and I drive a '97 EX ..(OBDII of coarse) .. no problems.. no CEL ..
Once in awhile I get a hiccup at ~1 psi. It's hard to say if this can be attributed to the TPS mod though. Although, I have confirmed that there's definitely something funky going on with the current in the JR relay power wire. You know, the wire that taps into the EACV power wire to supply power to the JR relay. Anyway, I had my electronic FP gauge power wire tapped into the wire between the JR relay and the EACV. Every time the pressure switch would open and close my FP gauge would hiccup and zero out. If I kept the throttle at 0 on the boost gauge it would cause my FP gauge to flicker. As for the TPS mod, it's still working flawlessly for me...even though she drinks a little more gas now. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
THE MOST USEFUL LINK HERE...USE IT!!! http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/sea...tro&default=40
Being that the TPS mod is taking to ECU into open loop at aprox. 1psi, will it effect the readout of my A/F ratio gauge?
I noticed now with the TPS mod, when under hard throttle when the engine goes into to boost, my A/F ratio gauge gets a little freaked out, it shows one(or two) red (lean) leds and one(or two) green (rich) leds at the same time for just an instance (or two) then it will go to the rich side of stoich (which is good) .. kinda wierd, but the car still seems to runs pretty good ... hmmm ... I wonder if it's just my JR FMU reacting slow to the condition.
My A/F goes rich as soon as I hit 1psi and it stays there.
Sounds like you have a wiring problem.
Greg
blwncvc, where do you have the power wire for the a/f gauge tapped into? I agree with Holden about it being a possible wiring problem. Recheck all of your wiring. If it's not the wiring listen for pinging and read your sparkplugs...you might actually be leaning out.
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
THE MOST USEFUL LINK HERE...USE IT!!! http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/sea...tro&default=40
I am getting the +12v for the purge cut solenoid, I check my wiring, and reset my ECU. The A/F ratio gauge isn't acting up anymore as far as multiple rich/lean leds at the same time.
BUT, get this ... when I ease into boost like from a part throttle, my setup seems to work pretty good, no pinging, A/F gauge goes to the rich side of stoich all good.
But if from a standing stop or from low speed, if I nail the throttle real fast, my A/F gauge will go to the lean side, (all the way) for an instant(or two), then it will jump up to the rich side of stoich. Is this my JR FMU reacting to slow to the sudden demand for fuel ?
I have check my fuel pressure, at idle it reads around 45psi, I can't adjust it any lower ( I still have the OEM fpr) and under boost it reads a steady 80 to 90 psi. It never dips . Could it be possible to have a lot of fuel pressue and still have a lean condition ? All the while I have never heard any audible pinging under any condition.
That's the JR regulator. It can't supply enough fuel fast enough when you mash the throttle and hit 3-4 psi almost instantly by breaking the bypass. Instant boost means you need instant fuel which isn't possible with the JR setup.
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Marc
1997 Civic EX
The supercharger is gone and so is my civic. Damn thieves!
Want to know why I got rid of the JRSC? http://crx.honda-perf.org/horror/jrsc.html
Thanks, thats what I thought too... Will the Cartech unit solve this problem ?
The Cartech can react faster... you should be able to stop this phenomenon.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
Anyone know where to buy a pressure-activated switch so I can try this on a turbo setup?
Also would like the switch for a couple other little gizmos I'm trying to put together but I haven't found any affordable adjustable pressure switches so any suggestions would be great.
Thanks